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Wednesday 20 August 2014

Day 7 - horombo hut to marangu gate

"Last day on the mountain after a cold night in the tents.

Woke up just in time for sunrise over horombo, which sits at 3700m, above the cloud line. 


We packed for the last time making a pile of clothes to give to the porters. A light breakfast and then as we were about to break camp the porters burst into a song about Kilimanjaro. 

We gave them our clothes which they really appreciated and then the obligatory tip. Our guide Elias explained more about why we were doing the challenge and they all were pleased that done of our sponsorship will come back to Tanzania through Transaid. 

We had a steady descent in sunshine through the moorland and then forest zones. Passind Mandala huts which are the first stop for climbers in the Marungu route up Kili. 


The track down was very busy with porters going up and down and bedraggled climbers descending passing hopeful and already tired climbers pn their way up. 


We did pass several memorials to recent climbers and porters whom had died on the mountain. A sobering reminder of the realities of our challenge. 

We managed to get to the park gate to complete the formalities by 1pm which meant that we had descended from the summit in less than 24 hours. 



Writing this en route to Arusha for a well earned shower and any food but field camping fare. 

Arrived at our hotel in Arusha, the Impala, which we are told is the 'best hotel in town'. It is not a five star, but any hotel with showers, warm water and real beds is very welcome. 

Dad celebrated by having a quick shower and then having a Kilimanjaro beer by the pool. 


We're off at 7am for the first day of our safari in tangarete national park. 

Day 6 - summit bid and then descent to horombo hut

LToday was the day all if the aclumituaarion, fitness training and our determination would be tested to the full. 

We agreed to set off from Kibo hut for the summit at 5 am, unlike most climbers whom set off at midnight to time their climb to meet the sunrise at the summit. A great idea until you find out that the temperature for six hours of climbing is minus 20 with extra wind chill and that the summit will be packed with upto 30 climbers clambering for a photo. 

Our plan worked well as we were the only ascenders climbing the frozen scree ramp from Kibo to Gilmans point. 


After an hour and a half he sun rose magnificently to start to warm our hands and feet and defrost our drinking packs. 

The heat was welcome but this also meant that the scree ramp defrosted to create a dusty and lose 30 degree wall which was a real test for us all. 

We managed to climb for two hours to reach Williams point at 5000 m, then another 45 mins to Hans Mryers cave the last natural refuge on this assent. 


Pace was slowed due to health issues linked to altitude sickness and general fatigue. None if us slept at kibo, a normal reaction to life at 4700 m. 

After a further three hours off monotinous climbing up switchback to cut the slope to a manageable 30 degrees, we all reached Gilmans point at 5680 m, the first official summt of the Kilimanjaro crater. Named after a prominent early member of the East African climbing club.


From here we could see for the first time the crater and the stacked Easter ice fields , a Magical site after almost six hours of climbing. 

Pictures were taken , congratulations made and we had an umpromptu celebration as we believed joe to be the youngest uk climber to ever summit at the craters edge. 

Joe and Helen were exhausted so they the descended and Dad and I carried on for another hour to reach the highest peak on the summit. Uhuru peak the official highest point in Africa. It was deserted so we took advantage and photographed us and the two guides Bryson and Elias. 


Both of us were suffering with head aches due to the extreme altitude 5895 m or 19710 feet. So we descended at 'guide pace ' running down to Gilmans and then descending back to kibo hut in less than an hour, covered in dust but smiling.

After a quick lunch we then tracked down to horombo hut at 3700 m another three hours trecking after 10 for Me and dad, we didn't mind as it offered an escape the headaches, loss of appetite, minus 15 temperatures of kibo. 



Writing this blog, with legs like lead, a mild headache but huge satisfaction in my personal achievement and what we have done as a family. 

Tomorrow five hours of trecking down the the Marungu admin office to fill out the necessary paperwork and to collect our certificates. 

Great fun, but never again! 

Tuesday 19 August 2014

Day 5 - Day 4 of climbing from third cave to kibo

Tough day today, finally realizing the difficulty of the challenge. We covered around 11 km but gained 850 meters in altitude. 

All of us had headaches and joe the worst. The first time he has suffered so far. 

We arrived at Kibo hut at 4750 m after three hours of walking through barren landscape full of lava bombs. (huge bolders ejected during the eruption which created Kilimanjaro) 



All suffering from headaches and tired, the exertion of the climb was tiring due to the thin air. 


Expecting a very cold night before our summit attempt tomorrow. 

Today's experience had knocked confidence levels a little re our ability to get to the top. 






Day 4 - day three of climbing from second cave to third cave at 4000m

Are breakfast with the most amazing view of the mountain. Definitely the best seat in the house. 



We were alone at the camp, except for our 14 support staff ! Including Gumbo the chef, Damian who is a porter and serves our food, Bryson the deputy guide and Elias our main guide and 10 porters who carry 20 kg packs containing everything we all need from food to mess tent and the food table and chairs. 

The tanzanian government insist that all expeditions carry everything they need and leave nothing on the mountain so 14 people are needed to support 5 climbers. 

Our guide once worked with over 300 posters supporting 76 climbers from the UK! 

We climbed into the alpine zone, which looks a little like moorland in Scotland except for the lizards. 

 The flora changes from trees with old mans beard lichen hanging from each branch to giant shrubs and heathers dotted with everlasting white, grey and yellow flowers and the odd red hot poker.

This is the transition zone from forest to the next level of alpine desert which is above 4000m.  

Managed to stop to make our mark for posterity. 



Arrived at camp at lunchtime and then discussed our options for the rest of the climb. We agreed to shorten by 1 day as the guides are happy with our progress and acclimatization. 



Expecting another freezing night then off to kibo hut for to rest, sleep and acclimatize our summit attempt. 

The next day will be a massive challenge, climbing over 1200 meters on scree at 30% gradient, at minus 20 and with 50% of sea level oxygen ! Like climbing eight Empire State buildings with one lung! 

We then hope to descend back to kibo and then onto horompo camp at 3700m. 

In all around 17 hours of effort so our largest test yet. Tonight we will dream of our summit photo and try to forget the facts of what we face. 

Day 3 part two

Great lunch in cave 2, it's amazing what the chef can make from basic ingredients  and one gas stove, chicken stew with pasta , great climbing food. 

Then we had an impromptu football match with England versus Tanzania. Nobody kept score but all had a great time. 


Woke at dawn after a freezing night in the tent. Minus 10 inside and worse outside, the only advantage of waking with sunrise is we saw Kilimanjaro summit for the first time. 

What a site, renewed our enthusiasm to get to the top. 


Day3 - first camp 270 to second cave 3450m

Early start after a breakfast of porridge soup, peanut butter and then a sausage and egg sandwich. Washed down with African black coffee, an acquired taste! 


Four hours of climbing through the clouds, initially through forest, then heather and then heathland . We spotted signs of buffalo which live on the mountain and use the trekking trails in the evenings. 


We stopped for lunch at first cave at 3300m, an old camping spot . A natural lava cave wit charted roof from the camp fires of early climbers. 

Then 150m more climbing, in Rocky and desolate terrain. 

We arrived in the cloud, the porters had already set up our tents and we had lunch in the secind cave. The only place protected from the cloud drizzle which is chilling and relentlous. 

Looking for an early night as we all did not sleep well last night, a common symptom of altitude. 

Tomorrow we climb to third cave at around 4000m over rough terrain. Not yet feeling any effects of altitude.

Despite the weather and the basic conditions we are all enjoying the experience. 

Lunch in cave two 

Friday 15 August 2014

Day2 Moshi to trail head and up to first camp

Early start after a great night sleep, our last in a real bed for a week. We ate a European African breakfast which was a real treat especially the African wild bee honey on toast, the favourite treat for Elephants and now we know why. 

Checked in at the Kilimanjaro offices to complete all of the necessary paperwork and get our permit to climb. 



Met up with our climb guide Elias, a Man U fan and guide to the stars as he has previously guided Brendan Rodgers and Chris Kamarra to the top! 

Had a two hour drive to the Rongai trail head, bus broke down en route which is normal here. We're all in good health and are confident and keen to get going. 

Great first days climbing, firstly through pine forest, then primary jungle and then the Heath zone, writing this in cloud drizzle at Simba camp 2650 meters above seal level. 



Setting up camp, waiting for some hot tea to warm up.